What to Know Before Getting Highlights on Black Hair

It doesn't have to be summer to wistfully pine for sun-kissed highlights. For those of us whose natural hues run more like Morticia Adams than Bella Hadid, lightening our jet-black hair in a way that isn't harsh may seem impossible — yet that notion couldn't be further from the truth.

"The biggest misconception I hate is the idea that black hair is boring," said celebrity hairstylist Julius Michael, who counts several raven-haired Real Housewives franchise cast members as clients. "Black hair is powerful, sexy, and on the right skin tone, can take years off!"

Contrary to popular belief, a darker base can look just as amazing with highlights as blonde or brunette hair. To get there, it's all about managing your expectations before taking the dive. This way, you'll nail that ever-elusive harmony between skin tone, base color, and highlight shade.

Meet the expert

To find out more, we asked three expert colorists to share everything they wished their black-haired clients knew before hopping on the highlight train.

4 Tips for Getting Highlights on Black Hair

Preparation Is Key

Taking a few proactive steps to whip your hair into shape ahead of your appointment will pay dividends in both shine and vibrancy.

"About a week before your highlighting appointment, it's good to get rid of build-up with a clarifying shampoo like Biolage Clean Reset, which will deep clean and remove build-up without stripping natural oils," said Matrix celebrity colorist George Papanikolas. Papanikolas also recommended a light trim to get rid of those dead, dry ends before your color treatment. This ensures you'll get the most bang for your buck.

According to Rita Hazan, the stylist responsible for Jennifer Lopez and Mariah Carey's hair color, there is no such thing as too much conditioning to strengthen hair in preparation for the dye.

"Just condition, condition, condition!," Hazan said, suggesting deep hydrating masks.

Decide on a Look Before You Get Started

Let's be real: Jet-black hair has quite the range. As Michael noted, you first have to decide if you want a look, or a look. 

"If your hair is black or dyed black, it's a dramatic color and can be very rock and roll," explained Hazan. "I would pick one or two thick pieces and lighten it as much as I could, depending on the haircut and style, to give it an edge."

If warm, subtle tones are what you're after, that's great, too! Whatever highlight style you choose, keep in mind that it will always appear a little stronger than our fair-haired friends.

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Find the Right Highlight Shades for You

"The best tones on black hair tend to be caramels and lighter browns," explained Papanikolas. 

Depending on your skin tone, the color can be adjusted to go warmer or cooler to find the most flattering hue for you. However, Papanikolas warned against going any lighter than four levels from your base color, as it can easily veer into a dramatic style that "can look harsh and create too much contrast."

To keep hair healthy and vibrant, Hazan recommended staying away from anything within the very light to dark blonde neighborhood to reduce the risk of breakage. 

"You can't just go from black to blonde in one shot," said Hazan. "It's a very long and possibly damaging process."

Your best move, according to Papanikolas, is to leave your dark tones as the focus and aim for lighter, creamy highlights to add dimension and glow. 

"I love to treat highlights on black hair as an accent to frame the face, the natural part, and the ends," Papanikolas shared.

While softer, natural-looking highlights tend to bring out the red and orange undertones found in most black hair, these brassy shades are easy to neutralize with an ash-based toner.

Remember, Black Hair Does Have Limits

"Black is a tricky base color to give any highlights," said Michael. 

However, if a total transformation is what you want, Michael suggested a cautious, baby-steps approach. This will usually occur over several sessions.

Losing vibrancy is another challenge with adding highlights to dark tones. 

"Black hair reflects the light best, and over time, you will lose some of that gorgeous shine," explained Michael.

However, one workaround is to maintain a strict maintenance schedule.

"Glosses keep the color fresh, and you can do these treatments at home two to three times a week," said Hazan.

How Do I Keep My Highlights Looking Fresh?

As with all color-treated hair, avoid daily washes (but dry shampoo is definitely your friend here), and use color-preserving products, like the acid-based shampoo Matrix Total Results Keep Me Vivid. This helps seal the cuticle and preserve the delicate toner molecules. You should also use a deep conditioner formulated to neutralize red tones, which will work double-time to maintain shine.

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